Monday, August 4, 2008

Hangin in Hungary


So, I've found myself in the Budapest airport with an open wireless connection (!!) and a couple hours before I board... I've got some time to write.

This last part of my trip has been quite interesting. It started on the morning of my hostel check-out in Vienna. Over a surprisingly scrumptious bowl of complementary cereal, I met a lovely Californian named Marina, with whom I accompanied along for a day trip in Bratislava, Slovakia. I wasn't originally planning on a Slovakian excursion, but from Vienna, it's quite close and fairly cheap, so we hopped on a train and headed out on our impromptu adventure. After getting only slightly and briefly lost in the post-communist wonderland that made up suburban Bratislava (My Cali-companion spoke fluent Russian - which apparently helped with a few bilingual Slovakians), we made it to the city center. Bratislava wasn't much to see though it had plenty of charm and after walking around taking pictures like the shameless tourist I am, and sweating enough to sufficiently fill a standard bathtub (that's right, you like that image. admit it... tub-o- Reid-sweat...), we sat down for a fiercely refreshing frozen fruit drink concoction. I'm very happy I had someone to go with.  It was good to have someone to talk to and I'm not sure what I would have done if I had to sit alone at that transfer train station in the middle of creepy NOWHERESVILLE, Slovakia on our way to Budapest. I certainly wouldn't have figured out how to use the restrooms or read any portion of the menus. Big thanks to Marina for the assistance and the laughs. 

So much of Slovakia seemed worn out and run down. Everything seemed so manual and archaic. Weeds took over so much of the paved areas and rust and graffiti seemed to be everywhere. At one point I suddenly became self-conscious about my photography when I realized I was taking pictures of how poor things were. To me it was poetic and beautiful, but I couldn't help but wonder what a local was thinking of me when he'd see me taking pictures of the corroded, graffiti-tagged trains.  The Slovakian demeanor felt cool and distant with fixed focus. I don't mean that in a negative connotation. They were all extremely nice (with the exception of the chick working the tourist information center...), but they have a somewhat distant way of interaction - more so than any other culture I've met so far. Bratislava had such a laid back Mediterranean feel. People strolled instead of bustled. 

Budapest was next on the itinerary. I took my time with this city. I lazily sight-saw and tried very much to relax on these last few days of travel. I went to a Hungarian thermal bath in the main park which was an amazing (and surprisingly inexpensive) experience. Everywhere I read said a trip to Budapest was not complete without paying a visit to one of their baths and I agree. They had 9 thermal baths, three of which were large outdoor ones with fountains and fun statues. I lounged the whole day there taking in the warm waters, the sauna, the cafĂ© and sun. By the time I was walking out the door, my muscles felt like jello and my mind felt similar to an alcohol buzz. 

The food in Hungary is incredible. I made sure to experience the foods of the culture including stuffed cabbage, goulash and gyro pita with paprika. The best meal was the stuffed cabbage at this town square restaurant in the small town of Eger, Hungary (about 2 hr train ride from Budapest,) - stuffed with beef, lamb, rice and seasoning drenched in a cream sauce. Amazing. Egar was probably one of the most beautiful towns I've ever seen. Very clean (a sharp contrast from the very dirty Budapest) and full of Hungarian charm, it's somewhere I want to go again someday. I wish I had budgeted more time there. My day trip could've easily turned into 2 nights if I had the time. I've found that some of my favorite European experiences come from the small towns where the true national culture thrives; stepping away from the tourist traps and congestion.

All in all, I loved Hungary. I took quite a few Hungarian traits from my mother (round face, wide jaw, high cheek bones) and as a result many people thought I was a local. I've never had so many locals approach me assuming I lived there, spouting fast Hungarian to my slightly frightened blank face. Or even funnier, I'd get Americans or Brits approaching me speaking very slow and single-word english. It was very cool.

For now, I'm excited about going home. I've had a blast, but it's time. I'm excited to hit the ground running and find a job asap and start really searching for an apartment. I've got alot to accomplish when I get back, but for now, I'm going to grab a bite before I board. :-)

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